Game Changing Perspective

 

This drone-like technology may very well change video making by making aerial photography accessible to random jonesers.  Imagine the applications from surf videos to vrbo listings to events to traffic reporting.   We are eyeing videos for Dos Ceibas and our rental properties.  

It seems like some technology worthy of Maloguas.  Ministers???

Jumble jumble

North shore appears to have another jumble (more here)

At last

make animation online

Morning session at Marias and the Pistons yielded some fun rides.  This wave went all the way to Doggies.  Mahalo

DWU

A True Masterpiece

Wow, a sculpture of a Malogua made out of reclaimed Strength! Could be a great piece to anchor the art collection at Pony's new joint. The fact that Surfrider and indirectly Rico have anything to do with it makes it more special! Ridiculous

And the Lord the said "Let them be robed!"

Where do you even start with these photos? Obviously Rico was involved with some type of special project to have missed such a photo op-very unlike him but certainly justifiable!



Harbour shop upgrade

New art in the alley at Harbour

Japanese beer innovation

This was my first encounter with the Kirin "frozen beer". As you can see the top is a sort of frozen foam soft serve (advertised as -5°). Even Kiko is impressed. This has the incredible effect of keeping your "gran" beer cold to the last sip. Formidable!

A Japanese beer innovation discovered in Paris!?!

If you have seen this before let me know (and if so shame on you for not sharing!).

A long time ago in a galaxy far far away

There were four cobs seeking strength!

#Donkeyshow

This picture was emailed to me this morning with a request for a good plastic surgeon. Who can name the Shizer in the background. One hint #donkeyshow #shizer

Tanarexia

Please note the color Abe chose for my tan in my Father's Day portrait!

Tracking Your Stoke

Racing a section on May 19th at Church

As you know Southern California has had quite a run of long period south swell over the last two weeks and there is no end in sight. The sun has been shining, we've had glassy afternoons and the water is 70°.

As you may recall, my annual goal is to surf 100 times a year and they say you can't manage what you don't measure. Well here's a tool to do that.

To aid in my tracking of this I am using a new app called the "Surf Journal" and so far I have found it to be a lot of J. Click here to download.

Here's a recent view from this last week of swell.

The app records the break location (you add them), wave quality, wave height, board used, friends, photos, notes, day, time and duration of your surf and maybe best of all records the tide and buoy data for your session. It also allows one to explore their sessions via any of these criteria. 

Back to my 100 surfs a year goal. To meet that goal, I am trying to hit about 8 surfs/month. Fortunately, with this last run of swell where I surfed 9 out of 10 days, I am close to being back on track despite a 6 week period on the IR due to a shoulder injury.

The three S's

Southern CA is enjoy a nice run of south swell, sunshine and warm water. The water temp in San Clemente reach 70° this week.  Fun waves to be had all over the place.  Here we feature T-street. The 3 essential ingredients were represented: Stoke, Swell & Strength - only thing lacking was some cobbs.

Air Temp: mid 70s
Water Temp: 70°! - trunks & a jacket
Waves: Head high sets
Session: 1 hour lunch time session
Equipment: Fish
Stoke: 8.5

As the above photo illustrates crowds were not an issue.

Duly noted. 

Schedule 4

Packing list or pull down menu for UCLA new EMR?

Something to aspire to

Imagine twin Maloguas and 2 generations of Maloguas learning about swell, stoke, and strength as well as seminars in quesadilla making and cooler management. It's gotta happen before Sam and Kilo only want to surf Pipe and Tavy.

Imagine the Seminary

A tropical Mexican pointbreak, ain't it just divine? Photo: Stoner

Rob Gilley

Of all the wacky ideas I’ve heard in my life, possibly the wackiest came from an unlikely source: George Downing. A friend told me that at one time George was trying to make a serious bid to have surfing declared an official religion. When I initially heard this, I thought it was one of the silliest things I had ever encountered.

Now I’ve changed my thinking. In fact, I’ve done a complete 180.

I owe much of my change of heart to Wikipedia. To define the term “religion”, the site used the following words and phrases: Worship. Prayer. Universal belief systems. Claims of spiritual transcendence. Specific narratives, symbols, traditions, and sacred histories. Something that gives meaning to life and drives behavior. Rituals, feasts, funerary services, music, and art. Mantras. Purposeful choices to live lives of poverty to be closer to it. Pilgrimages.

And then the lightning bolt struck me: Surfing is more religious than religion is.

So given this divine revelation, let’s take it another step. Let’s claim it. Let’s give this religion of surfing a name. I don’t know, something appropriate, maybe slightly irreverent or fun…like how about The Church of Yew? And then maybe we could have cool sayings like Yew Dukefari, in acknowledgement of our patron saint of Aloha.

I’m totally serious. In fact, I’m actually starting to feel a bit rapturous just thinking about all this. Well, that and the potential tax-exempt status.

Leonedin.com

Tonight, I used the good ol' Leonedin.com networking app - like LinkedIn but with a 1000000x times (at least) higher quality control & a raging filter that is par non.

Had a great meal with Oliver in London who, as you can see, sports a worthy fro.

A brother from another British mother.

A beacon in the night

While strolling home from a Plymouth pub and enjoying a strength on a dark & stormy night I came across this little reminder of home & cobbing.

Also worth noting that the surf here is going off. Sadly I could sample it due to my injured wing.

Bad Day for Samoan Loggers

Looks like there is more reasons to make weight. Maybe there will be gyms on the plane again?

Do you find strength in this post?

The photos of Tyler are typical, I'm interested in the vintage piece hung below them.

Maloguas in the snow

It's been a year of breakthroughs for one frigophobic Cobb who conquered his fear of cold water at the Yule and through the use of Patagonia down also dispelled his fear of snow. In what can only be described as epic snow conditions, two Maloguas, a whip and two micro-cobbs dominated Telluride.

Look at the stoke on that cobb despite frozen side burns.

Another upside of alpine cobbing - your beer actually gets colder the longer you drinking it while working out.

The cobbs on a brief foray into the action drinking so Rye-based cocktail in fancy glasses. 

Oh... and as I said, the conditions were epic and evidenced by this shot of the mini-cobb laying down a mean bottom turn.

Uh Oh

Return of Dr. Stokanstrength

If you haven't heard I'm trying to stage a bit of a comeback, well, don't call it a comeback!  I caught more waves at the Bu' today than I've caught on any one day since the early days of the millennium. For some reason the crowd was very light, the conditions were ricisimo and I had the right log for the job, you'll note in the left hand of the panorama shot. As is often lamented by the Puerto Rican Cobb, the only thing missing from this glorious session were some Maloguas to share it with. Nevertheless, I registered an 8/10 stoke and got to work on my tan to boot.


Air Temp low 50's
Water Temp Mid 50's
Waves 6th rib to SH
Session 1:45
Log: the Wolf

Staycation

After an epic week in Telluride, this Cobb has enjoyed Swell, Stoke & Strength for 8 consecutive days. 

Here's the math.

4 surf spots, 3 boards, 1 Cobb and a gang of J.

The only thing missing...the other Cobbs.

Respect, boss man

The only reason that I doubt that Pony was behind this is because there was no reference to "hug it". But damn, I really wish this was his ad. Respect.

Good on you

In the Spirit of Career Eyes

Here is one possible eye for one Cobb's career.   Is this actually a career eye?



Comments please.

From the Leo Burnett Where Are They Now file

While the man sometimes known to say, "Keep Cobbing and Good Things will Happen" is crowned "The Next Big Thing"(bravo cobber!), here's what's happening elsewhere in the ad universe...

rico's surfographic

Here's an infographic summarizing my surfing in 2012. My goal was to surf 100 times during the year so I give myself a B-. I am going to have to work a little harder at it in 2013. ~rico

Dream realized

After years of preparation, the first generational third world Latin American surf trip to Bocas del Toro. Sam & Kiko found swell & brought stoke. Strength took a back seat. And, yes - that is a left.