Tuesday, March 31, 2009

literally logging: part 2

I decided that I really wanted to try logging on a log - so I headed up to Hermosa Beach to pick up a alaia blank from Jon Wegener. These blanks are made of Paulownia. Here he is putting "the stuth" template on the blank.

Monday, March 30, 2009

The Big Dipper's Pact

"I enter the water in my late fifties, wondering if I've still got it. I leave the water in my childhood. "

- Bruce Jenkins (journalist, bodysurfer, dad)

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Saturday, March 21, 2009

literally logging: part 1

The guys who decided we should really log on logs like the early Hawaiian surfers. Then they started playing around on really thin logs - the alaia.

Image from The Present, which has a nice feature on alaias.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Cobb on the shoulder

I am pretty sure the guy on the shoulder paddling (far left) for the wave is me from Monday AM at Uppers. I didn't get this one but got a few like it! Great early season south swell.