literally logging: part 2

I decided that I really wanted to try logging on a log - so I headed up to Hermosa Beach to pick up a alaia blank from Jon Wegener. These blanks are made of Paulownia. Here he is putting "the stuth" template on the blank.

The Big Dipper's Pact

"I enter the water in my late fifties, wondering if I've still got it. I leave the water in my childhood. "

- Bruce Jenkins (journalist, bodysurfer, dad)

Peace, My Name is Stoke

A Pirate Movie

And I quote, "Get the LOG ready!!!"

WATCH

literally logging: part 1

The guys who decided we should really log on logs like the early Hawaiian surfers. Then they started playing around on really thin logs - the alaia.

Image from The Present, which has a nice feature on alaias.

Wegener Alaia

Tom's Creation Plantation Trailer from Cyrus Sutton on Vimeo.

Cobb on the shoulder

I am pretty sure the guy on the shoulder paddling (far left) for the wave is me from Monday AM at Uppers. I didn't get this one but got a few like it! Great early season south swell.