Monday, April 30, 2012

Other side of the pond same ole Shiz

However I heard a voice like Obi Wan Kanobi that whispered through the cold onshore mist "it's always better than it looks" and it was. Wave count 1/2 dozen and feeling better than before I got in.

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Reflections In Shize

As spring creeps towards summer in the tropics, even shize can lure a cobb into the ocean.   A mostly social session, there was some serious small wave shredding being done for a spell by soulful surfing guests Otto Flores and Keith Malloy.  But ultimately even their skills could not overcome the primarily shizer conditions and disconcerting number of spongers. Today's session of mediocrity provided some moments of contemplation and a few realizations...

1) Even guys like Otto can get yelled at by boogie boarders who think belly riding waste high slop is worth getting worked up about.

2) May is Malogua month.  They both start with "Ma" and who doesn't love their Ma?  Unless we can undo the Euro curse (can the third time be the charm?),  let's turn back the clocks in 2013 and go logging for a week between May 10 and 24.

3) Surfing shizer is better than not surfing at all.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

This Log Can Go Left - Frame 3

What might have seemed like capricious travel planning and indecision, was actually a successful hedge that
yielded fine results and the opportunity to come home to charge a nw swell; an all too rare event this lackluster season.

Monday, April 02, 2012

Evolutionary Questions

Photographic evidence suggests that an ever-increasing jo could potentially result in a hybrid walrus/malogua; or is this just a walrus riding a malogua?  Who really knows?