Showing posts with label soul. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soul. Show all posts

Friday, July 13, 2012

Did you hear the hummingbird fly by?


Leon and I met Glen Horn through Boots McGee down in Baja a few years back. Glen is a surfer and Surfboard shaper 3 months per year in San Diego, he lives the other 9 months in "Big Red" his RV is a converted '67 delivery truck. He split this time in between 2 secret locations that he tries to preserve as pure as they were 30 years ago when he first traveled there. Here's Glen dropping some knowledge on living in both worlds - urban & natural.


Thursday, April 26, 2012

Reflections In Shize


As spring creeps towards summer in the tropics, even shize can lure a cobb into the ocean.   A mostly social session, there was some serious small wave shredding being done for a spell by soulful surfing guests Otto Flores and Keith Malloy.  But ultimately even their skills could not overcome the primarily shizer conditions and disconcerting number of spongers. Today's session of mediocrity provided some moments of contemplation and a few realizations...

1) Even guys like Otto can get yelled at by boogie boarders who think belly riding waste high slop is worth getting worked up about.

2) May is Malogua month.  They both start with "Ma" and who doesn't love their Ma?  Unless we can undo the Euro curse (can the third time be the charm?),  let's turn back the clocks in 2013 and go logging for a week between May 10 and 24.

3) Surfing shizer is better than not surfing at all.


Thursday, July 29, 2010

The Original Cabron

The Original Cabron, pre-jo, doing some old school charging on PR's north shore back in the day.

Friday, December 04, 2009

Oregon Soul Log



Take a beat up mid-60's Dewey Webber and a thrashed mid-60s Jacobs that have been deglassed. Insert some redwood and port orford cedar - mixing in a little high density pink foam.

Add a dose of serious creativity and vision a beautifully hand made fin of the same materials, cover with special volan and inlay and you have a pretty incredible Oregon soul log.



The genius behind this reconstruction is Bryan Bates of sevensurfboards.com. The planshape is a Cort Gion Signature Model outline, Cort helped with the fin and the rails and some other aspects. From Markus Meade the proud new owner, "I have no idea how Bates "saw" a board from the wreckage that was. His creativity and craftmanship is amazing; it's like magic." He continues, "I intend to ride it; just not often. And yes, it's as heavy as it looks. All I need now is a right hand point break."

Amen.