Thursday, September 08, 2011

Charles Dickens

As the sun set last night, there was no telling what the morning might bring...

When morning broke, the Cranberry Stick was waxed and ready.

And a quick look revealed some waves starting to line up at the point.

But there was little indication of the "J" that would follow...


3 hours of overhead lined up walls running down the reef from the rock all the way to the pistons with hardly a soul and no other loggers for the first half of the session. Long, long, long noserides intermixed with the occasional and inadvertent cover up including an accidental double b.

Oh Katia, you sexy storm. Thank you for your gentle embrace.

Friday, September 02, 2011

What are you bombing?

After a great 2 hour session of some real bombs (note: the big set waves here usually break inside that outer reef that this wave is breaking over) I got caught inside the bay and when attempting to duck dive a close out my board was ripped from my hands & my leash snapped. After getting sucked south and out again by a rip and after a 10 wave set, I finally swam in to find my board broken into a dozen pieces. The inside waves breaking against the rocks were so vicious I couldn't even recover the broken pieces. RIP 5'8" Pod.

And then there were three...

Or were there?

"I'm starting to realize that the real problem here is knowing the future. If knowing the future didn't make the present so annoying, it could be fun."
- M. Miller July 16, 2009