Thursday, August 26, 2010

Dume Alert

I just finished a 4 hour session at Dume with my neighbor. For the first hour we were the only ones out...until Laird paddled out and started dominating! That spot is pretty epic, and according to the guy I was surfing with some of the crotchett is gone, and has been replaced with families and overweight surfing professionals. All and all, A+ session

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Buoy, Oh Buoy! This is Swell!

After years of virtual buoys and eye-balled surf sizing, Puerto Rico's North Shore is finally getting a buoy that will provide actual real-time wave data. This info should prove useful not only for forecasting, but also to figure out which spots might work best for a given swell. I guess it's time to dust off the wave log and start recording swell height, period and direction on those epic days.

A big shout out to Dr. Miguel Canals for bringing a surfer's perspective to this effort.

To make things even better, Canals is feng shui-ing a buoy off-shore of Rincón. It should be in place around Halloween. That's some seriously localized swell info on the horizon.

Check the San Juan Buoy


Sunday, August 08, 2010

Say Wha?

Some ridiculous board riding from one of the masters of glide. The video title is a bit mysterious as even a French surf check would be unlikely to cover the distance from Lafiténia to J Bay. Then again...

Wednesday, August 04, 2010

The decline of western civilization... or at least Point Dume

Native Point Dume surfer and author Katie Arnoldi has watched her beachfront community turn from rural, board-and-batten enclave to haute bourgeois beach club, filled with yoga moms on SUPS. She is not amused.

Her latest novel, Point Dume, is a study of the place she knows like few others. She skewers a variety of Malibu archetypes, but saves much of her venom for the despoliation of the coastal foothills at the hands of Mexican drug cartels and residential developers.

Sounds like this could provide some insight into the step behavior found in and around Malibu. Then again, it could just be sour grapes. Probably worth eyeing.