Maloguas at trail 1

Strength coach ponders overhead closeouts at Trail 1. Things are about
to get interesting! More on the outcome later.

Kinder Gentler Malogua

Moments after this photo taken on a lazy August afternoon, Pony gave
me the coldest can of beer I've ever had.

Bigswell

Following a dawn patrol during the largest cleanest south swell in a
decade, Pony relaxed with his strength, moments after his Wingpin was
dropped down a twenty foot rockpile (by a homeboy, not me).
Fortunately, no one was killed by the cascading log, maybe a
shortboarder was, who knows!

Kaenon Polarized on Facebook

Has anyone taken notice of Kaenon Polarized's Profile Photo on Facebook?

No photoshop involved. Just cobbing.

Laguna is NOT like Malibu

You could also file this under "You gotta give respect to get respect. And if not...."

After getting hopped on a critical "rock shot" an elder statesmen gives a youngster a lesson. Frog looks over his shoulder wondering... WTF?

Tacos & Waves

The Maloguas love tacos and waves. We also love New York because of the high concentration of quality people we know there. However, these three things usually come from very different places on the earth. Maybe, maybe not.

More...

literally logging: part 4

The alaia is finished. Thanks to Brian from Laguna Republic for fine tuning this beautiful board.

literally logging: part 3

Click here for the whole set.

Brian Bencz of Laguna Republic surfboards who is not only a shaper but also a fine woodworker is the perfect guy to help me shape my alaia. We started with a 6'6" "Stuth" template that Jon had put on the blank but decided to enlarge it a bit to aid in paddling and getting into waves. So we decided to add an inch to the width and 2" to both the tail and nose. The result is a 6'10" x 17" stuth. We then cut it out and cleaned up the edges. So far its looks pretty good. Can't wait to try surfing the thing.

Cinco de Mayo Log Alert + Shiner

The morning of Cinco De Mayo 2009 - at Log Alert was issued at Thalia Street in Laguna Beach. Moderately high tide, glassy, empty and a 2-3 NW swell. I rode my alaia and actually got some fun waves on it for the first time.

Half way through the session, I fell off the board and grabbed it. It pivoted and cracked me in the eye (see photo above). Lesson learned: dont' be cavalier about grabbing alaia in the soup.

Frog & the Anti-Log

Not a log. In fact, not even close to a log - instead a 5'5" fish. But, hell, he's my brother and I am very proud.

No Leash, No Olive

Uncle Dennis, showing us how it's done proper. No leash. No olives.
Charging, of course, on his own handshape in Rincón, PR.

No Cobbs

No Cobbs. And that's the problem.

literally logging: part 2

I decided that I really wanted to try logging on a log - so I headed up to Hermosa Beach to pick up a alaia blank from Jon Wegener. These blanks are made of Paulownia. Here he is putting "the stuth" template on the blank.

The Big Dipper's Pact

"I enter the water in my late fifties, wondering if I've still got it. I leave the water in my childhood. "

- Bruce Jenkins (journalist, bodysurfer, dad)

Peace, My Name is Stoke

A Pirate Movie

And I quote, "Get the LOG ready!!!"

WATCH

literally logging: part 1

The guys who decided we should really log on logs like the early Hawaiian surfers. Then they started playing around on really thin logs - the alaia.

Image from The Present, which has a nice feature on alaias.

Wegener Alaia

Tom's Creation Plantation Trailer from Cyrus Sutton on Vimeo.

Cobb on the shoulder

I am pretty sure the guy on the shoulder paddling (far left) for the wave is me from Monday AM at Uppers. I didn't get this one but got a few like it! Great early season south swell.

Malagua = Euphoria?

WWW.EUPHORIAGRAPHICS.COM.AU

Log Alert Issued

At 12:16 PM on February 20, 2009 at T-Street in San Clemente, CA an official solo Log Alert! was issued. The Log Alert was communicated telephonically to Puerto Rico.

Conditions at T-Street:

Waves: 3-4 foot from the South & glassy
Weather: Sunny
Air Temperature: 72 ° F.
Water Temperature: 63° F.
Crowd: light

Shortly after the Alert commenced, it was regraded to a Fish Alert due to a dropping tide, increasing swell and cracking inside sand bar.

Questions about this Log Alert can be filed via the comments section.