So far, the sheize has been on. Day 1 session was waist high and weak, yet nonetheless resulted in a broken leash and a smashed nose. Day 2 yielded hours of looking and a single wave surfed. Day 3 was too big. The wind was too west. And total waves surfed = 0. Day 4, thus far, has been the same.
Day 5 - surfed Tres Palmas Day 6 - too sick to surf Day 7 - returned to the line-up. Took a heavy beating at Tres Palmas. Scared myself silly. Day 8 - forced myself back to Tres. Caught a few redemption waves during the morning sessions. Evening session at Marias. Huge crowd yielded a huge crowd pleaser > Calypso > evening eyecheck where Jose tells story of beating Tres administered to this pendejo Day 9 - 3 Hour Marias glory session = LOG ALERT!
The name Igor has meant so much to so many. What will it mean for us this week? Perhaps it will mean...
2 comments:
So far, the sheize has been on.
Day 1 session was waist high and weak, yet nonetheless resulted in a broken leash and a smashed nose.
Day 2 yielded hours of looking and a single wave surfed.
Day 3 was too big. The wind was too west. And total waves surfed = 0. Day 4, thus far, has been the same.
Day 5 - surfed Tres Palmas
Day 6 - too sick to surf
Day 7 - returned to the line-up. Took a heavy beating at Tres Palmas. Scared myself silly.
Day 8 - forced myself back to Tres. Caught a few redemption waves during the morning sessions. Evening session at Marias. Huge crowd yielded a huge crowd pleaser > Calypso > evening eyecheck where Jose tells story of beating Tres administered to this pendejo
Day 9 - 3 Hour Marias glory session = LOG ALERT!
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